Thought you might find it interesting what classic Pontiac GTO cars are for sale at the world's premier muscle car and hot rod auction, the 2010 Scottsdale Barrett-Jackson Auction. The event runs from Jan 18th-24th and typically features hundreds of fine examples of collector cars for the enthusiasts and dreamers. I'm really curious to see what lot #1213 goes for. Options are similar to my car.

Update: the 1968 lot#1213 sold for $37,400 (includes 10% buyer's commission).

Click the Lot # to view in-depth details and photographs.

Lot # Year Make Model Style
417.1 1967 PONTIAC GTO 2 DOOR HARDTOP - sold $33,000
454 1964 PONTIAC GTO 2 DOOR HARDTOP - sold $56,100
684 1966 PONTIAC GTO CONVERTIBLE - sold $46,200
697.1 1967 PONTIAC GTO 2 DOOR POST COUPE - sold $42,900
937.1 1967 PONTIAC GTO 2 DOOR HARDTOP - sold $45,100
945.2 1965 PONTIAC GTO 2 DOOR HARDTOP - sold $61,600
952.2 1970 PONTIAC GTO JUDGE 2 DOOR HARDTOP - sold $77,000
974 1964 PONTIAC GTO CONVERTIBLE - sold $104,500
1083 1969 PONTIAC GTO COUPE - sold $31,900
1213 1968 PONTIAC GTO COUPE - sold $37,400
1309.2 1969 PONTIAC GTO CONVERTIBLE
1581 1966 PONTIAC GTO COUPE
1590 1966 PONTIAC GTO 2 DOOR CONVERTIBLE

Previous 1968 Pontiac GTO auction results from Barrett-Jackson auctions

Stopping your car is critical, especially when you just had a bunch of work done and you don't want to rear-end someone. Or, maybe because you don't want to die. Simple things. Well, the GTO had a hard time stopping. I've known this for a while (years) and have really done nothing about it. But, now that I want to actually drive the car, the brakes needed some paying attention to. So how did I know there was an issue? What are the symptoms in an older, hydraulic-based, drum brake system that indicated your brakes may need bleeding?

Signs your brakes might need bleeding

Depressing the pedal with a low fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir or disconnecting any part of the hydraulic system permits air to enter the system. Air may also enter the system when brake shoes are replaced. Signs you might want to bleed the brakes...
  1. An idiot (warning) light comes on but only when the brake pedal is depressed nearly all the way down. In the case of a 1968 GTO (and maybe older A body, muscle cars and other GM makes from the 1960s), the warning is when the red "brake" light beneath the speedometer gauge turns on. This typically happens when you're low on brake fluid. Or, in my case, when you've got something going on with your brake system (like air in the lines).
  2. You have to depress the brake pedal all the way down to the floor before the car begins to slow.
  3. You have to pump the brake pedal repeatedly before the braking seems to respond normally.
  4. The brake pedal feels mushy.

I experienced all of the above issues with my 68 GTO. These are the tell tale signs that there is air trapped in the brake lines. It's bad if air gets trapped in your brake lines because it results in there being a lack of pressure in the braking system. Pressure is necessary in order to open and close the brake calipers. That's great, so now what do you do?

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After about 8 weeks, my 1968 Springmist Green Pontiac GTO is back home! The paint and body work is complete and looking good. The vinyl and molding are all set. What's left to do is the interior and a bunch of little things (like put the door handles back on - details.

So my wife followed me home tonight because it was dark, I had a gallon of gas in the tank and no tail lights. Had a bit of a scare after leaving the gas station and almost rear ended a car before making a left onto LA Ave. Seems that the brakes need a little maintenance. Nearly crapped myself.

1968 GTO nose and hood - GRRRRRR

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This is very exciting. Today I stopped by the shop to visit the car and drop off the molding trim for the vinyl top. I got to take a look at the car. It's beautiful! Painting is complete. Next steps are to buff it out and reinstall the bumper and valance. freshly painted GTO

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I stoped by the body shop the other day to take a look at the progress. Seems that it's a bit challenging to properly align the front bumper. The goat has the endura bumper option, which is a flexible polyurethane outer coating over the steel framing. This one is original, so it is most likely misshaped from years of bumping into stuff. They're not going to be able to get the sides of the bumper aligned with the front fenders, but this is OK. The middle is aligned with the hood at least.

gto_resto1_005

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So work is progressing along nicely. The hood, fenders and bumper alignment has been completed and some of the body work has been done.

1

more pics on the flip side...

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Color name: Springmist Green Metallic (color code P)
Paint codes...
Lucite: 4897L
Dulux: 4897D

You can see the color on this site here http://ultimategto.com/68colors.htm and here http://www.oldride.com/library/1968_pontiac_gto.html.

I also found a site that listed the Rinshed-Mason and Ditzler codes, http://www.myss396.com/ChevelleInfo/PaintCodes/1968_PaintCodes.html, where the code formulas for the color was verified from paint chip scans. Seafrost Green is Chevy's version of Pontiac's Springmist Green color.

Rinshed-Mason: A-1989
Ditzler: 43774

It's really official now. I've finally done it. This afternoon I dropped off the goat at the shop where the body and paint is going to be done, Auto Body Unlimited in Simi Valley, CA. She's gonna come back with a new look: straight body, fresh paint. Then the fun work is left for me - reassembly of all the components that attach to the body, like the door handles, trim, emblems.

Paint is going to be the original Springmist Green. The vinyl top is going to be replaced and will be black.

I sort of can't believe this is happening. I've owned this car for years and it's just sat in the same condition forever. Well, guess I kept it for a reason, so let's go!

Well, this is it. After 15 years, I'm finally committing to restoring the goat. I believe I have my finances lined up. This is pretty exciting for me. I've wanted to do this for years. Starting today, I'm looking for the right paint and body place to do the work I don't trust myself doing - straightened, filling, priming and painting the body. I'm also going to keep the vinyl top and I'm fairly certain I'm going to go with the original body color of Springmist Green. The car is 99% original, might as well keep it looking that way. 

So this is it. Photos and videos are forthcoming. As promised, this will be documented!

 

Adam